This is a series on notes on building armor models for contests. Most of what is here came from the IPMS Competition Handbook. While the topic is "for contests", if you adopt these practices for all your builds, you will see your skills improve. That's how I approached it and am glad I did. Some background; I have been modeling as an adult since 1986 and started attending IPMS shows in 1990. The first IPMS Nats I attended was in Va Beach in 1996. I have consistently placed at local and regional shows since 1996 and first placed at the Orlando Nats in 1999, then again in 2002 and 2005. I also enter AMPS contests. I was fiven a lot of good guidance and assistance from the late Al Gerber, who was the IPMS Head Armor Judge. When I started modeling and more importantly attending contests, I discovered I liked the quality of the contest models and wanted to emulate that quality. So, I made the decision to improve the quality of my work -- not just for contests but for all models. I became competitive with myself, not others, and that gave me a proper frame of mind to improve my work. The basis for this is the IPMS Competiton handbook, which can be downloaded from the IPMS website. This covers every aspect and class of the National contest. Follow the simple logical rules in that and review your own work at each step and your modeling will improve. Then all you have to do is adapt your practices for the specific rules of the contest you want to enter. Basic Construction - the very first thing Judges consider. Remove flash, especially prevalent on older kits. Fill sink marks everywhere, especially on link and length tracks. Fill/cover motorization holes, such as on Tamiya kits. Fill seams; not just seams from joining but seams from molding. Pay special attention to the main gun barrel! Be careful to maintain cylindrical cross-section. Correct contour errors. Not sure if really important unless it is just so wrong (Academy Sheridan, Tamiya Lee, etc). Gaps between upper and lower hull. Fill sponsons to prevent a see-through effect, block off any gaps to prevent this. Gap/overlap on track ends. Prevalent on vinyl tracks. If skirts will hide problem then OK, if not it is best to replace with aftermarket tracks. Guns and round stuff. Drill out gun barrels and exhausts. Replacement with aftermarket is an option. Vents should be opened up or replaced. Track pattern. Make sure track pads are facing the same way on both sides and that it is the right way. Alignment. Road wheels: Make sure all road wheels, idler wheels, drive sprockets, and return rollers are at the same distance from the chassis centerline. All wheels must be level unless on a contoured base. No droop. Remove seams unless thye are on the original (T55). Detail the interior of the wheels if needed (Hetzer). Road wheels must sit flush on the tracks!! Tracks: Not leaning in or out when viewed from front or back. Not toed in or out when viewed from the top. Make sure track runs straight down the line of road wheels and/or return rollers. Vehicle components: Should be square and aligned. Guns: When appropriate should be parallel to the vehicle centerline when viewed from above. Headlights, etc Headlights and guards, fenders, mudflaps, etc, should be positioned symmetrically unless represented as damaged. Details. Thick parts: Anything overscale should be thinned down or replaced (mud flaps). Welds: Add where possible. You can also use welds to fill some seams. Extra parts: Add if practical, have references ready for wierd stuff.Add windshields wipers if appropriate. Tarps, etc: Make sure they fit the curves and make sure everyhting is tied down. Aftermarket parts: Should blend in with the basic model. Formed PE should be precisely placed. Molded on parts, such as tools, etc: Take them off and replace. Molded in screen should usually be replaced. Track sag: Duplicate if appropriate. Live track doesn't sag. Headlights: Drillout and add lenses, if needed. Add electrical cables; also to smoke dischargers, horns, etc. Tires: Add valve stems. Instrument faces: Pick out the detail and add lenses. Gas, brake, clutch pedals: Add if needed. Grab handles: Replace if necessary; you can get good results by cleaning up the plastic parts. Underside: Treat it as importantly as the rest of the model. Putting it on a base can help eliminate problems in this area. Painting and Finishing. Surface: When finished there should be no signs of the construction process. Finish: Should be even and smooth, except for Zimmerit or anti-slip surfaces or if you are duplicating an actual vehicles irregular finish (have documentation). No brush marks, no lint, no ornage-peel or egg-shell effect, no random differences in sheen. Paint edges: Sharp or feathered as appropriate. Weathering: Consistently applied. Decals: Properly aligned. No silvering or bubbles. Eliminate film. Should look painted. Colors: Shouldn't be used to determine accuracy; if it is far from "usual" colors, have documentation. Final Thoughts Think like a tanker -- don't give the judges something to shoot at. Look the model over carefully before you put it on the table. Brush off the dust and make sure everything is still in alignment and that nothing is broken. Enjoy yourself; it is a hobby!! A note and shameless plug from the Webmaster, who is also an IPMS National Judge. A great way to learn a lot, have fun, and help out your fellow modelers is to volunteer to be a judge at every contest you go to, particularly the Nationals.

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