Trumpeter 1/35 WW2 German Sd.Kfz.7 Mittlere Zugkraftwagen 8t early version Kit# 35010 MSRP: $64.95 Website: www.stevenshobby.com I am a member of the IPMS Reviewer Corps and built this as an IPMS Review; the following review differs in format and content from that published on the IPMS/USA website. I would like to thank Stevens International and IPMS/USA for providing the review kit and allowing me to review it. First, a quick first look -- Wow !! Remember we have not had a 1/35 SdKfz.7 to pull our 88's and such since Tamiya did their's a few decades ago. So this is a very welcome kit -- well, if you do German stuff. I don't normally, but given the chance to review the kit, I couldn't pass it up. There are 800-some pieces in here -- 300-some are track, leaving 400-some for the vehicle itself. And is it detailed!?! If I had a tech manual, I could probably run all the electrical, fuel, air, and brake lines among the provided components and drive it off somewhere !! There are separate doors for the rear body with interior detail if you want to show them open. Strangely with all this detail, there are no fan belts, the interior of the engine compartment seems a bit bare, and the radiator/grill are a bit cheesy, but all that is minor. There are a couple accuracy issues according to Terry Ashley of PMMS - the shape of the front fenders and the sprockets -- I'm not sure about the first, but I can see his point on the sprockets, more on this in the next part when I have to deal with it. My general impression is that it is a quality kit -- there are some seams, some flash, and a couple ejector pin marks, but not that many. Frankly the build has gone very smoothly. The instructions are complete and logical. Anyway, I studied this thing before I started. What I did not see was much in the way of detail paint instructions. I asked a few questions on our Forum and got some great info that allowed me to plan the build. Given I'll paint the whole thing gray, my build plan was to build up as much as I could, hose all that down, then go into final assembly. I could see a couple breakpoints -- I decided to build the chassis up to the point of installing the winch so I wouldn't overpaint the cable, same idea with the spare tire. Then I picked up on the other side of that and added more to the chassis, then build as much of the body as I could. Seems like a workable plan. Here's a few things I encountered working on the chassis. Step 1: Part D35 is shown upside down in the instructions. Leave off the levers D13, D38, D45 until steps 11-13, they are way too vulnerable. Step 2: I deferred much of this to step 3 so I had a system to work with; it's too weak and wobbly if you follow the instructions. Step 4: Getting pulleys and fan aligned need some work; as mentioned earlier, you'll need to add some fan belts of you are going to show the hood open. Also note that if you follow the paint instructions literally, you should only paint half the engine block ... Step 5: Jump ahead to step 7, assemble the fuel tank, then use that to line up the mounts in step 5. Also, I only built part of the winch, so I could add it and the cable after painting the chassis/body ... Step 6: Parts D46-D47 are the winch cable rollers, they should be bigger. I left 'em as is, but did drill a hole through them and through the crossmember where mounted so I could thread the cable through later. Step 7: I basically skipped this other than build the sub-assemblies. I'll come back and add the springs, fuel tank, air tanks, engine, etc after painting and during final assembly. Step 8: I left off the idler adjusters (A17-A20) so I could be sure I have my track tensioned right later. Step 9: Leave off the steering wheel for same reason as all the shift levers ... Step 10-11: It looks as if you can move the front wheels, but that's true only during assembly, ultimately it gets locked in place. I chose to have mine turned slightly. Trumpeter gives you a great diagram to get the linkage right !! Steps 12-14: Initially, I only built up the sub-assemblies, again waiting until after paint to put them all together. One warning in step 14 -- be very careful of the fit of B15, B16, B21 (sprocket) because they must be tight and there is only one way to align the parts and Trumpeter doesn't tell you the secret -- one of the tabs on B21/B16 are different and must match up. Step 15: I skipped the track. As a good aircraft guy, I'll put all those pieces under my pillow and hope the track fairy comes along and does it for me ... boring ...

Now we're into the body ... Step 16: When installing the supports (B19, B26, B27) test them against their attachment points on the frame to be sure they are aligned properly. I had to do some sanding and filing to be sure they would all mate properly later. Step 17: You can have plastic or photo-etch rifle butt holders. The kit PE is much too thick and hard to work with. I used the plastic butt-holders. Step 18-19: I skipped this for now, I'll mount the body after painting. Step 20-21: Mostly building of sub-assemblies, but you can start to flesh out the rear compartment walls. Step 22: More of the same. Here I used the PE upper rifle holders instead of the plastic one, but the folding/mounting isn't really obvious from the instructions. But, if you glue the rifle holders onto the seat backs then glue the seat backs onto the body you cannot slide a rifle up into them. That of course had been my plan -- I even begged some Kar98s from the guys in my chapter !!! Anyway, I'd either leave off the upper holders until later or fit the seat backs with holders down over rifles -- whatever you prefer. Step 23-32: I just kept building sub-assemblies onto the body, but holding lots off until after base coat or painting -- the pictures below will give a good idea of what I did or didn't do. Step 26: the seat back A2 goes in with the center hole up -- and in step 27 when you add PE parts B12, you'll have to shorten the PE part used in that center hole. Step 28: The kit provides interior detail for the rear compartment doors, but the PE is so thick and the parts so small they can't be bent easily. I replaced all the lock guides (PE-A2,A7) with some plastic strip. Also do not glue door G14 into the rear body section F32 until you have put the spare tire in the carrier !!! OK, here we are -- a bunch of semi-assembled assemblies ready to march into the paint booth.

First the parts got a black primer coat. Then I started making mistakes, primarily because I don't do German stuff, or in this case pay attention to the instructions. It's not that Trumpeter didn't supply a color chart, it's that I either didn't read it or misread it or had a brain-burple along the way. Since I don't build German I don't know the colors and I have no German paints except maybe a few I picked up for color variety. Anyway, I got White Ensign (my brand of choice) Panzer Grey and sprayed it over top the black primer coat. Gee, that looks dark ... So I went back to the color chart and saw that it was Field Grey not Panzer Grey, but somehow that got screwed up in my mind to German Grey. I found that Tamiya had German Grey so I got that and oversprayed the Panzer Grey. Gee, not as dark, but still dark ... At this point words "Field Grey" finally sunk in, but then Trumpeter equated that to XF-65 which is RLM Grey!! Since I'd been screwing with paint for weeks and gotten nowhere I decided to just move on ... Moving on ... I restarted at Step 1 and started adding some parts I had skipped the first time, skipping others again. I added the winch and cable, fuel tank, air tanks, springs and then the sprockets and road wheels. I again left off the engine, levers, and steering gear to protect them and left off the track adjuster, idlers and the outer rear road wheel. I had some problems with the road wheels and the arms. Test fit all of them first. I found the arms a bit long and had to be trimmed off to get the outer wheels (B2) to mate to the inner wheels (B22) properly. I also found it necessary to clamp the B2/B22 road wheel assemblies together to get them to dry tight. Time for the track. The instructions say there are 108 links per side, but it really means 108 total or 54 per side -- I determined this by test fit. Actually you get 128 links in the kit, so there will be spares. Each link consists of 3 parts and they need to be cleaned up -- tedious work. I didn't follow instructions - I glued the pad holders (T2) onto the shoes (T1) building sections of 2, 4, 8, etc until I had a full length of track, then I painted and rusted them. I separately painted the pads, then glued them in place. If you are careful, the track will articulate nicely. Although I grumbled a lot about mindless repetitive tasks, it really wasn't all that bad when complete -- however, it's why I build wheeled vehicles. Now to put the track on. Here's the first problem, brought to my attention by Terry Ashley. Apparently the real sprockets were handed and the rollers slightly offset so the track would lie flat on the sprocket. The kit gives you identical sprockets and the rollers are centered. Sure enough, the track doesn't lay quite flat, although mine appears close to OK. I found that if I pressed the track down on the sprocket with blunt nose tweezers it laid down a lot better. I didn't try to completely correct the problem, but suggest two solutions; cut off the guides of the links going round the sprocket or narrow the sprocket rollers where the track goes around.

Next problem is the track adjuster and idler. That is a very weak join and I used a short length of brass rod to shore it up. Then I slid the arm/idler into its place on the chassis and used a "wooden pry bar" to get the right track tension, locking it in place with some well-placed CA.

With the main parts of the chassis done and the track on, it was time to return to the body. First thing up was to mount the body (which I had assembled quite a bit of earlier) onto the chassis. With the road wheels and track in place you cannot really see where the body supports (B19,B26,B27) fit on the chassis which is why it was important to carefully test fit and trim all that beforehand. This is a critical step to ensure the body and chassis are aligned correctly. With that done, the next step is to add the front fender assembly (C31), seating it on the chassis and against the body. From here we're rolling. The engine can be added safely, then the exhaust and more of the little bits. Remember I built up most of the cargo body before -- it is a good idea as it helps protect the driver's compartment. We're now at steps 20-22 -- now it's time to put in that steering gear assembly followed by the firewall assembly. It is a good idea to test fit the firewall, floor, and drivers seat assembly to be sure you get the firewall correct. I did that then glued in both the floor and drivers seat right after -- start saying bye-bye to all that nice detail.

Decals are provided for the instrument panel. The panel itself has little raised spots where the placards should go - they should have just left them flat as the placards and decals aren't always the same size. The instructions, the decals, and the panel don't all match up -- I did the best I could. I will say the decals went on all right, with Micro-Sol/Set, and conformed to the gauges, etc, very well (but see note below). From there you can add the instrument panel and any other items. The batteries sit out in the open so I added a couple cables. Oh, yes, now it's time for the gear and brake levers, they're protected now. At step 24, hold off on the dash (C26) until step 27 where you add the two body sides (F1,F23) then look ahead to step 32 where you add the grill, side panels, and hood. Work all this together so you get a good tight fit around the firewall -- even if you're not going to glue down the hood and/or side panels. It's not a really a problem, the fit is quite good, but it all needs to be worked together to ensure success. I chose to glue down the engine compartment panels, much to the dismay of the guys in my club, but with them open I'd just have to get in there and start detailing. I did leave the hood loose so I can peek in if I want. Terry Ashley notes that the fender over the sprockets rises a bit too much -- I'm not sure I can see it. I do think the grill, radiator and the side panels are major detractors (I think I said cheesy in part 2) -- in my opinion, the side panels need to be brass with properly open vents, and the grill/radiator should be separate so there is some definition. Add to this the front tires, which Terry Ashley says are post-war tread, and you have a major appearance shortfall up front -- a shame because the rest of it is so much better.

And that's it -- add all the other pieces and you are done. I've chosen to have the top down. It doesn't lay down on the body quite right so I filled the gaps with some .030 strip. Terry Ashley notes that the left taillight is post-war and should be left off, as should the two reflectors on the fenders. The incorrect left taillight causes problems in that all the rear "license plate" has a little notch to accommodate it. While we're on decals, I already discussed the instrument panel and since we're now at the license plates -- the decals are thin and a bit fragile, they tear easily if you use a sharp object to push them around. I also found that the paper would start disintegrating before the decal came loose. Just something to watch for. I think if you are going to close the cargo doors you'll have to do some trim work to get them to fit tight and flush. I am leaving mine open. I have decided to find some ammo, kit, gear, etc, and load it up. That'll mean I have to pry off the upper rifle holders, insert some weapons, and put them back. I'm also hoping that someone will come out with after-market front wheels (mine aren't really glued on). For these reasons, I've done little weathering of the vehicle -- that'll wait until I get the extra stuff.

Assessment I actually enjoyed building this model. The detail is very good. It is a shame so much ends up hidden. Someone could go nuts super-detailing this -- a field maintenance diorama comes to mind. It is also a shame that Trumpeter skimped on the grill and side panels, used post-war tires, etc. The front end really drags down the quality of the rest of the model. It is not hard to build, but it is a large, complex kit with many small delicate parts. There is some trimming and clean up but not all that much considering. The overall fit of parts is very good. Properly assembled using good basic modeling procedures, the kit goes together nicely.

The instructions are good -- I think I found only three errors in 28 pages, 37 steps and 800-some parts. The build sequence will work but may not be optimal -- I deviated to accommodate my building style, which is "if it sticks out I'll break and loose it". If you deviate from the instructions, you better have a good system to mark progress -- again it is a large complex kit. I'm not sure what the BII/OVM list for this vehicle is, but it has to be more than 2 shovels, 2 axes, 2 gas cans, a funnel, and a crank. My limited experience with Trumpeter armor kits (this and the SFH18) is that they skimp on the accessories. Of course, if you button up the cargo area, it may not matter. In my mind, this is a very good kit -- there are a few problems but no show stoppers. The front end and tires keep it from being great. It certainly beats the tracks off the old Tamiya kit and if you have an 88mm or 15cm gun, you need this either towing it or sitting nearby.

Because of the size and complexity, I would recommend this to experienced modelers. I would like to sincerely thank Stevens International for the review kit, IPMS/USA for allowing me to review it, and fellow reviewer Mark Aldrich for not keeping it to himself. PS: OK, Trumpeter, now that the Germans have their arty prime mover, care to throw that much effort into something from the winner's side -- say the Mack NO ???? PPS: After the build, I found a set of replacement wheels for the SdKfz 7 from Tank Workshop (item #2040). They are resin, probably done for the Tamiya kit, and I'm unsure how generally available they are.

Information, images, and all other items placed electronically on this site are the intellectual property of ECPM. References to these items by hyperlink or by citation are permitted and encouraged. For any other use, please contact the webmaster.