|
I originally purchased this kit
when it was re-released in 1991. About that time I also
purchased the Eduard photoetch set, which provides enhancement
for cockpit and flaps. I worked diligently on the project for a
couple of weeks, and then put it aside. And there it sat on my
shelf in the box for 12 years.
The project was finished over a
period of about 4 weeks during the months of July and August
2003. I used Tamiya paints. I first applied the base colors.
Painting the camouflage was done using Poster Putty and plastic
wrap. For details on how I did this read my How
To article in last
month's newsletter.
Weathering was done by lightening each color and airbrushing the
highly diluted lightened mix in the interior of each panel line.
I then went back along the panel lines with a very slightly
darker (again highly diluted) version of the original color. I
also used a silver Prismacolor pencil to simulate paint
chipping. I also applied a burnt umber oil wash to some of the
panel lines. I also spattered the underside with mud behind the
wheel wells by making a sludge wash with black pastel powder
mixed with liquid dishwashing detergent and water. I then
collected some on a old brush, and flicked it onto the underside
of the wing.
The project turned out fine but
was definitely touch and go at times. My biggest error was
applying a base coat of Krylon chrome to the fuselage, thinking
I would later chip paint back to the "metal", and then
foolishly applying Tamiya paint on top. Anyone who's ever done
this will know that the acrylic will not adhere well to a
lacquer based paint. Indeed, when I tried to mask underside Sky
color prior to airbrushing the black underside, the Sky came off
in sheets. So, it was steel wool the paint as far as possible
back to the plastic, and reapply the camo colors. This time I
used Testors Model Master Sky for the undersides. This adhered
much better. I was able to get most of the chrome off the upper
surfaces, which allowed me to use the Tamiya paints as
originally planned.
And then there was the problem
with the kit canopy. After giving it some thought, I decided to
use the kit part, rather than doing the old "heat and
smash" technique to make a new one. The canopy was polished
out (inside and out) using Blue Magic and then securely glued
into place using Fallers nonmarring glue. Eduard Easy Masks were
then used to mask off the many windows. Unfortunately, I had
done such a good job of polishing out the canopy that I managed
to polish away a number of the framing lines, making it
difficult to determine exactly how some of my masks should line
up. The short of it is that I placed and removed the masks so
many times that the adhesive began to wear off, preventing a
good paint seal for several of the masks. I finally used the
Easy Masks frames to pattern replacement masks made from Tamiya
masking tape.
I had been trying to decide how
to paint the belly bomb window. This clear piece has many finely
raised panel lines which would be very difficult to mask. I
tried Tamiya masking tape, Bare Metal Foil, Parafilm - none of
them were really suitable for the job. I finally ended up
airbrushing clear decal film the appropriate color (either Sky
or Black), cut into narrow strips and applied over the framing.
Not perfect, but I was satisfied with the results.
The final challenge was the kit
decals. I decided early on that I would tempt fate and use them.
Keep in mind that these were Tamiya decals that were at least 12
years old. But they hadn't yellowed or cracked. I tested one
from the alternate scheme on a scrap model. It worked OK. I
applied the wing roundels - a little thick - even by today's
Tamiya standards, but with several applications of Solvaset they
laid down OK. The fuselage roundels were unfortunately, out of
register, something I hadn't noticed until they were on the
model. Fortunately I had a couple in the spares box - actually a
freebie sheet I had picked at a previous IMPS Nats which was
actually for 1/72 Lancasters. But I managed to find a perfect
match for my Buffalo, and they went on without a hitch.
One of the final steps was adding
wingtip navigation lights. I had originally intended to use
clear sprue to simulate the lights, but about that time I read
issue #99 of Tamiya Modelling Magazine which had a really neat
suggestion about using the small fiberglass beads which you will
find inside any water filter. Lucky for me, my wife had just
changed the filter in our Brita carafe. I sliced open the old
filter, and amidst the many tiny flakes of charcoal, there were
countless tiny fiberglass beads of varying sizes. I picked up a
couple about the right size with a pair of tweezers, superglued
them in place on the wingtip and painted them with Tamiya clear
red or clear green. Pretty neat idea! By the way, a good
Optivisor is a must for such detail work.
So there you have it. 13 years
from start to finish. I think that sets a record for me for time
to finish a kit!
|
